BEA 2010: Bright Lights,Cheap Eats: A Local Librarian's BEA Food Trails
A New York City librarian picks where to eat during BookExpo America 2010
By Tara Lannen-Stanton -- Library Journal, 05/24/2010
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I’ve been a lover of New York City food since I was born on the Upper East Side, from its pricey strip steaks to its budget chicken parmesan heroes. When I was six or seven years old, my dad moved to the Lower East Side, a shady area then, but one that endlessly fascinated me with its little bodegas and hole-in-the-wall eateries. Despite my mother’s pleas not to go beyond Avenue A, I explored the neighborhood’s food and books. My dad used to write novels, so we moved in literary circles that I never realized were as important as they were until I was much older (poets Allen Ginsberg, Ted Berrigan, Jim Carroll were all friends of my father).
Then came an initially disconcerting move to my mother's hometown of Mt. Pleasant, MI, where cornfields replaced concrete and ethnic treats. Thirteen years, one MA, and an MLIS later, I fulfilled my promise to return to New York via a job at Queens Library. Today, my heart belongs to Queens rather than Manhattan, but I still love my dad’s old ’hood. And while I could never claim to be an expert on one of the food capitals of the world, I know what I love, and I love to eat.
My food trails—complete with Google Maps and designed to help visiting BEA-goers navigate Manhattan’s myriad bistros, sammich shops, red sauces joints, and falafel stands—are organized by neighborhoods selected for their proximity to the Jacob K. Javits Center and the librarian-discoun
ted hotels, not to mention their having good eats (including vegetarian, though not strictly vegan). Confession: I tend to favor ethnic food, which often entails, well, yes, entrails or spice, as in heat. More often, however, it simply means cheap and delicious, a fine combination in these recession times. Enjoy, and for the love of books, steer clear of T.G.I. Friday’s!
Key to icons: Red icons are subway stations; pink, really splurgy restaurants (over $30 per entrée); blue, medium-priced restaurants (approximately $18-$30 per entrée); yellow, bars; and green, cheap restaurants.
Near Javits | Hell's Kitchen | Chelsea | Lower East Side/East Village
Near Javits (Garment District West & Beyond) | Google Map
BookExpo America is being held at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in the outer reaches of Manhattan’s West Side. I call it the Garment District & Beyond, since you can stumble into confusing and barren places. There are great places to eat, however, within a few blocks of the show. Wear your walking shoes, and rebel against bad overpriced grub.
—Market Café | 496 9th Ave. between 37th and 38th St.
This French-style cafe/bistro is one of the restaurants that makes it worth the walk from Javits. The roast pork sandwich and salmon tartare appetizer are very good, as is the pan-roasted cod. It’s a bit pricey, but you could easily spend $20 for crap back at the convention center. BONUS: Allergen-free menu options.
—Cafe Andalucia | 533 9th Ave. between 39th and 40th Sts.
Go for a broad assortment of the tapas here, and then wash it all down with a pitcher or two of the great (and decently priced) red or white sangria. I normally favor red wine and red sangria, but the white variety pairs nicely with the many seafood dishes.
—Il Punto Ristorante | 507 9th Ave. between 38th and 39th Sts.
Vegetarians and vegans, be warned—this place is for lovers of pasta with meat and bechamel sauces. The Timballo will induce dreams long after you’ve left New York City.
—Hudson Yards Café | 450 10th Ave. between 35th and 36th Sts.
So close to BEA, this is not to be missed for lunch or dinner. The sandwiches are great, but only served at lunchtime. I’ve never been here for dinner, but I have it on good word the menu is just as good. See the PLT (pancetta, lettuce, and tomato) with basil mayonnaise, a subtle switch-up from the classic BLT, and the mussels cooked with tequila, lime juice, serrano peppers, and tomatoes.
—Tagine Dining Gallery | 537 9th Ave. between 39th and 40th Sts.
This looks like a plain storefront, but when you go inside, it feels as though you’ve stepped into a luxurious vision of Morocco. The vast majority of the cold and hot mezze are really good; ditto on the tagines—cone-shaped dishes in which meat, vegetables, and spices are simmered—particularly the vegetarian and lamb varieties. Don’t miss the besbousa (cake drizzled with honey and orange blossom water).
—Uncle Jack’s Steakhouse | 440 9th Ave. between 34th and 35th Sts.
Sometimes a girl just wants to eat a huge steak in peace and without judgment; the New York strip here does the trick. I’ve always gotten the 16 ounce, but someday I will be hungry enough to get the 24. The asparagus, string bean, and tomato salad nicely balances out that big hunk of meat. WARNING: This place is expensive.
—Skylight Diner | 402 W. 34th St. between 9th and 10th Aves.
If you’re craving diner food—burgers, grilled cheese, tuna salad, etc.—walk the few blocks to Skylight Diner. My favorite meal is a cheeseburger with sweet potato fries and a chocolate milk shake. Don’t forget the side of Ranch dressing for the taters. Yummy!
—Burgers & Cupcakes | 458 9th Ave. between 35th St. and 36th Sts.
A seemingly odd combo, but try it. You can get a variety of “meats” for your burger, including salmon and portobello mushroom. The chili cheese fries and sweet potato fries are also delicious. The cupcakes are decent, if a bit heavy on the icing.
Hell's Kitchen | Google Map
Hell’s Kitchen—the area west of the Theater District and Times Square—used to be a really sketchy area when I was younger. Today, though packed with covetable apartments and respectable restaurants, it has maintained its authentically New York feel. If you’re feeling adventurous, ditch my recs and just walk up 9th Avenue from 42nd Street to about 54th, and you’re liable to find a worthwhile option on every block.
—Marseille | 630 9th Ave. between 44th and 45 Sts.
Marseilles combines the best of French cooking with the best of North African/Mediterranean cuisine. The Moroccan lamb, chicken paillard, and steak frites are the best options; the espresso parfait is insanely delicious for dessert. For an expensive drink after a long day of lugging books, get the seriously delightful Le Pamplemousse, made with Absolut Ruby Red grapefruit vodka, Campari, elderflower syrup, and fresh citrus. BONUS: There’s a prix fixe for $35 that includes appetizer, entrée, and dessert.
—Ardesia Wine Bar | 510 W. 52nd St. between 10th and 11th Ave.
I love wine, though a pompous wine snob I am not. Luckily, Ardesia is not a snooty sort of wine bar. Wait staff don’t look askance when you fumble for an explanation of what you like. My suggestion is to select some cheeses, a few snacks, and the duck banh mi, then tell your server what kind of wine you normally like, and they will help you select one. BONUS: Happy hour is Monday through Friday, 5 to 7 p.m. Glasses of wine are $6, and draft beers are $5. The Blue Point Toasted Lager goes great with cheese and duck.
—123 Burger Shot Beer | 738 10th Ave. between 50th and 51st Sts.
So you’re broke from paying for BEA registration and your hotel, but you desperately need a drink and some cheap, stomach-filling food. Come here for $1-burgers (sliders that come three to an order), $2-shots (not the toughest, but for $2 whiners need to shut up), and $3-beers (there’s a decent enough selection). When you’re finished, hit Rudy’s Bar, or go to Rudy’s first.
—Tehuitzingo Deli | 697 10th Ave between 47th and 48th Sts.
Walk to the back of this grocery store for excellent tacos. At $2.50 a pop, they rate as superb cheap eats. The lengue (beef tongue) is crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. The goat, yes, goat tacos are so delicious and flavorful; ditto on the pork.
—Tulcingo Del Valle | 665 10th Ave. between 46th and 47th Sts.
Another amazing, affordable Mexican hole-in-the-wall. The chicharron (fried pork skin) tacos, the cecina (salted beef), and the chorizo-potato tacos are the stand-outs here. As at Tehuitzingo, the goat tacos are all kinds of delicious. You can get a soft-corn tortilla taco for $2.75 and a hard-corn tostada for $3. The mole poblano and the pipian de pollo are also good as slightly more expensive platters (still under $12 for a huge portion). Also huge, cheap, and delicious are the tortas (Mexican sandwiches).
—Bis.co.latte | 667 10th Ave. between 46th & 47th Sts.
Great coffee (both regular drip and lattes) are excellent, but what is really wonderful about this place is the homemade biscotti. Don’t be overwhelmed by the selection; just pick a few and try them. I’ve never had one I didn’t like. BONUS: There are usually vegan options.
—Casellula Wine & Cheese Bar | 401 W. 52nd St. between 9th & 10th Aves.
I was introduced to Casellula through a Groupon. And now when I grow up, I want to make enough money to pig out on cheese and meat here at least once every week. If you’re feeling flush, come here for a cheese flight and some meat—the duck sausage and speck are heavenly. The wine selection is also great; as at Ardesia, they are not snobby.
—Piece of Chicken | 630 9th Ave. between 44th and 45th Sts.
Amazing, delicious, greasy, wonderful soul food that is ridiculously cheap. For $2, you can get a chicken breast, leg, or thigh; for $3 or $4, great sides like macaroni and cheese, candied yams, collard greens, and corn muffins. Cash only.
—Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant | 468 W. 47th St. between 9th and 10th Aves.
This remains one of my favorites in the city. The portions are huge, and everything is very flavorful. The injera (yeast-risen flat bread) is really good. If you want your food spicy, though, make sure you ask for it. The vegetarian dishes are especially great here, but I assume most are made with butter, so they’re definitely not vegan.
—Rudy’s Bar & Grill | 627 9th Ave. between 44th and 45th Sts.
Rudy’s Bar has cheap pitchers of beer—the house beer is only $7 a pitcher; most beers are under $12 a pitcher. I once saw a family there with two kids under the age of five sitting at the bar, and no one batted an eye. My husband swears there’s something in the beer that gives him the worst hangover, but I think it’s just because we drink more when it’s so cheap. A New York City dive bar at its absolute best, with surly bartenders. BONUS: free all-beef hot dogs.
—Kyotofu | 705 9th Ave. between 48th and 49th Sts.
I’ve only ever been to Kyotofu for desserts, and it’s well worth the trip for librarians with sweet tooths. This is a Japanese-style dessert bar, where you can get an amazing chocolate souffle cupcake, not to mention a sweet potato cake and a mochi chocolate cake, the likes of which I’ve never tasted before. BONUS: There’s a chef’s choice prix fixe for three different desserts for $17.
—5 Napkin Burger | 630 9th Ave. on the corner of 45th St.
I’ve only had the 5 Napkin Burger here, but it’s wonderful. Not your typical American burger, but delightfully juicy and flavorful, with lots of gruyere cheese, rosemary aioli, and caramelized onions. Since I am not recommending my favorite burger place in the city (it’s too far away from BEA, and I’m feeling secretive), make due with my second.
Chelsea | Google Map
Just south of the Javits is the neighborhood of Chelsea, which has two draws, the High Line and Chelsea Market. But all of Chelsea, especially more secluded blocks with older buildings, are fun to wander. It possesses much of the charm of the West Village, but it’s not as easy to get lost in. The Google map may look a little sparse owing to the bounty of choices inside Chelsea Market.
—The High Line Park | 20th St. to Gansevoort St.
This gorgeous elevated park, built along old elevated freight railroad tracks, opened last summer. I recommend starting at either end and walking the whole length. At some point in 2011, the High Line will be extended to 30th St. Once you have explored the High Line, exit at 16th St. to go to Chelsea Market.
—Chelsea Market | 75 9th Ave.
An indoor collection of shops that takes up an entire city block, Chelsea Market used to be a biscuit factory. Visitors will notice the industrial feel remains. There are so many different options here, but don't worry—you can grab a few things from different places and snag a spot at the tables throughout.
I would recommend starting with a brownie from Fat Witch Bakery—a Red Witch with cherries or a Fat Witch with walnuts are my picks—before grabbing some milk from the Ronnybrook Dairy Bar just a few doors down.
If you are there at lunchtime, there is Dickson's Farmstand Meats, where they have regular meat by the pound, as well as tasty hot sandwiches. If you like cheese, definitely hit up Lucy's Whey, an artisanal cheese shop. It’s a bit on the expensive side, but I usually satisfy my craving with small slices. You can also try the prepared foods at the Lobster Place: great lobster bisque, Cajun crab and corn chowder, and Manhattan clam chowder.
If you’ve had enough salty and savory foods, head over to People’s Pops or L’Arte del Gelato. People’s Pops makes popsicles and shaved ices with local ingredients. These aren’t your normal popsicles—I’ve had rhubarb, sour cherry, plum, and my favorite, blackberry lemon verbena. L’Arte del Gelato is a great traditional gelato place. I can only eat a little bit because it's so rich, but I like the tiramisu and the coffee flavors.
—Cookshop | 156 10th Ave. at 20th St.
A great place to have a little bite to eat before or after you explore the High Line, particularly if you aren’t planning on eating at Chelsea Market. This is a local, seasonal, and artisanal cafe with an ever-changing menu. I’ve only been there once for dinner and had a great lamb dish and a wonderful salad with beets and delicious things that I can’t remember. I was very impressed with the food; we’ve tried to go back for brunch, but it was really packed.
—Cafeteria | 119 7th Ave. between 17th and 18th Sts.
Cafeteria boasts the most amazing blueberry ricotta pancakes, croissant French toast (so decadent), and green eggs and ham made with goat cheese and pesto. I’ve only been there early for breakfast, but it’s open 24 hours a day. Rumor has it dinner lines can get crazy, and with its amazing Mac Attack plate (three different kinds of macaroni and cheese), I can see why. The place to go for those 3 a.m. cravings.
—R.U.B. BBQ | 208 W. 23rd St. between 7th and 8th Aves.
Righteous Urban BBQ is one of a growing number of surprisingly good BBQ places in New York City. The pulled pork is amazing: soft, piecey, and nicely spiced. Also not to be missed: the pastrami, the best I’ve ever had and enough to make your nice Jewish grandma cry in frustration; and the burnt ends, the end pieces of smoked brisket that have sold out even when I’ve gotten to RUB early for dinner.
Lower East Side/East Village | Google Map
Back before gentrification crept in and took over, the Lower East Side (LES) was much larger. My dad’s neighborhood was rechristened the East Village, but it was always the Lower East Side to me. Today, you can dine in many a fancy-pants joint, but I’ve included some of my cheap favorites with a few of the newer places I really like. There are so many great things to see and eat in this neighborhood that I can’t possibly name them all. Suffice to say, check out Tompkins Square Park and the community gardens tucked away on many different streets.
—Puebla Mexican Food & Coffee Shop | 47 1st Ave. between 2nd & 3rd Sts.
I have no idea how long this place has been around, but I can remember going here when I was pretty young. First it was bacon, egg, cheese, and tomato on a roll with coffee (I started on coffee at a very early age!), but I quickly moved up to chorizo breakfast burritos, which are insanely delicious. The chicken mole burritos are also excellent, as is the veggie burrito. This is a cheap, cash-only place.
—Verlaine | 110 Rivington St. between Essex and Ludlow
This is one of the few places I will recommend in the new LES for its great lychee martinis, sangria, and house bloody marys. The fried ginger chicken wings are absolutely delectable, with the ginger standing out among all the spices. The chicken satay and shrimps are also good. BONUS: Happy hour from five to ten p.m. with $5 lychee martinis, bloody marys, sangria, and house wine.
—St. Dymphna’s | 118 St. Mark’s Place between 1st Ave & Ave. A
This is one of the best spots in the neighborhood for drinking (even if I am still a little bitter about them raising prices). It’s happy hour from noon until 7 p.m., with $4 draft beers, and they have a great selection, including Strongbow Cider on tap. The decor is Irish rustic. The food, only decent.
—DBA | 41 1st Ave. between 2nd & 3rd Sts.
DBA was, in my opinion, one of the first real, big signs of the changes in the LES. It’s an expensive craft beer bar with a mostly surly staff, but the selection of draft beers and liquors is so great that I usually forgive them their rudeness. Another plus is that you can order in food or bring food in to drink with your beer. I would suggest a burrito from Puebla Mexican, an arepa from Caracas Arepa Bar, a sandwich from Katz’s Delicatessen, or some vegetarian Thai from Pukk nearby.
—Polonia | 110 1st Ave. between 6th & 7th Sts.
Oh, Polonia, my sweet Eastern European jewel, you have been around for years satisfying my cravings for challah French toast, pierogies, blintzes, potato pancakes, and vegetable soup. You have changed a bit recently, but I still love you dearly.
—The Bean | 49 1st Ave. on the corner of 3rd St.
This corner spot has great coffee and tea and is great for people watching. BONUS: A free, usually clean bathroom downstairs that no one cares if you use without buying anything. Trust me, this can be very important in New York City. (Whole Foods on Houston and the Bowery also has nice free bathrooms.)
—Hop Devil Grill | 129 St. Marks Place between 1st Ave. and Ave. A
The best deal in the city on Wednesday nights is to be had here—$10- pitchers of slightly tart, sweet, and deliciously strong sangria in both red and white. The food is pretty tops, too, especially the shrimp cobb salad and the various sliders. What makes this place even better are the huge selection of draft beers, the great happy-hour special on beers (half off all drafts), and the food specials, including half-off starters on Mondays (read: all the sliders, pulled pork, cubano, and Southwest chicken sliders). Cheap, cheap.
—Je Bon | 15 St. Marks Place between 2nd & 3rd Aves.
A huge Asian fusion place with great sushi, humongous noodle dishes, and the best drink known to woman—sake slushes, flavored with lychee, watermelon, grape, and so on and mixed with sweet sake. My dad introduced me to these delightful yet deceptively strong drinks, and it’s been true love ever since. Also get the crispy ribs, deep fried with crispy garlic on top. BONUS: Happy hour all day Sunday through Tuesday, with specials on sake slushes, sake cocktails, beer, and regular sake. There’s also a 3:30 to 7:30 happy hour every other day.
—Kuta | 65 Rivington St. between Allen & Eldridge
All different kinds of satay is what really makes this restaurant stand out, but the entrees that I have had (duck and beef) were also really good. They also have nice cocktails (lycheetini!). BONUS: Prix fixe for $25 with one satay, one appetizer, one entrée, and one dessert. It’s really one of the best deals in the area for dinner.
—Pommes Frites | 123 2nd Ave. between 7th St. & St. Mark’s Pl.
Delicious french fries with your choice of about a gazillion sauces. Cheap, cash-only food that goes great with beer at DBA if you can rush your fries there to keep them hot (it’s possible; I've done it!).
—Boka | 9 St. Mark’s Place between 2nd & 3rd Aves.
Korean fried chicken made with a patented recipe that involves magic and double frying from what I understand. You can get all-you-can-eat wings and all-you-can-drink beer for $25 during happy hour, but I’ve never been able to eat anything close to even $10 worth of wings since they are really quite big. There’s a soy garlic sauce and a hot, spicy chili sauce, both of which are great. The service here kind of sucks, but the succulent, crispy wings make it completely worth it.
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Tara Lannen-Stanton is WorldLinQ Coordinator in the New Americans Program at Queens Library. In her spare time, she studies Arabic and is an avid foodie. She very sporadically blogs at http://tarals.wordpress.com |
